Image

Acknowledgements

Georgia Kirsop

Vashti Armit

Matthew Barzun

Sarah Bennie

Jet de Boer

Daniel Bohan

Caroline Butler

Mary Dean

David Douglas Duncan

Tom Downer

Bassam El Jundi

Alice Fisher

Matthew Freud

Roger Guyett

Lucy Harrison

Ian Heide

Laura Higginson

Joanne Holland

Ross Jasper

Norma MacMillan

Yoni Markman

Helen Marsden

Dave McCauley

David MacIlwaine

Caroline Michel

Magdalena Moores

Anya Paul

Charles Pullan

Nina Raine

Stefan Ratibor

Gail Rebuck

Kadee Robbins

Roo Rogers

Luisa Rosario

Linda Saunders

Rae Shirvington

Rebecca Smart

Stephen Spence

Alex Tidey

Pete Valenti

Barbara de Vries

Gary Waterston

Mark Williams

Georgie Wolton

John Young

Richard Rogers Tilly Trivelli

Jemi Vilhena

and all of the team at the River Cafe

Image
In 1992, Ed Victor called and said ‘Ruthie and Rose, write a cookbook’.

This one is for you, Ed.
Image
cover
Image
Image

Recipe List

Ricotta al Forno

Vignole

Marinated Artichokes

Raw Artichoke Salad

Crab and Raw Artichoke Salad

Bagna Cauda with Prosecco

Bruschetta with Mozzarella and Spinach

White Asparagus with Bottarga Butter

Raw Porcini Salad

Agretti with Tomato and Pangrattato

Zucchini Trifolati

Fig and Cannellini Salad

Chickpea and Fennel Farinata

Panzanella

Red and Yellow Peppers, Anchovies and Capers

Langoustines with Borlotti Beans

Marinated Fresh Anchovies

Ricotta al Forno

Ricotta al Forno is one of our favourite recipes. A flourless Italian soufflé, when it is ready the top should still wobble.

Serves 6

unsalted butter and grated Parmesan for the dish

2 handfuls of fresh basil leaves

a handful of fresh mint leaves

a handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

500g bufala ricotta

120ml double cream

2 eggs

150g Parmesan, freshly grated

12 black olives, stoned and chopped

Preheat the oven to 190°C.

Using a little butter and some grated Parmesan, coat the bottom and sides of a 30cm round springform tin. Shake out any excess cheese.

Put the herbs into the bowl of a food processor and put half of the ricotta and cream on the top. Blend until bright green. Add the remainder of the ricotta and cream and turn on the machine again. While blending, add the eggs, one by one. Season with sea salt and black pepper. Finally, fold in the Parmesan.

Spoon the mixture into the tin and spread the olives over the top. Bake for 20 minutes. The torte should rise and have a brown crust, but still be soft in the centre. Serve after 5 minutes.

Ricotta al Forno
Ricotta al Forno

Vignole

Serves 8

8 small Violetta artichokes with their stalks

juice of 2 lemons

1.5kg each peas and young broad beans in their pods

4 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium red onions, peeled and finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped

8 slices prosciutto

2 large handfuls of fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped

100ml extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve

8 slices sourdough

1 garlic clove, peeled and cut in half

Prepare the artichokes (see Marinated Artichokes, here), but leave them whole. Remove the choke with a teaspoon, then cut each artichoke vertically into eight segments. Drop immediately into a bowl of cold water with the lemon juice.

Remove the peas and broad beans from their pods.

In a large pan, heat the olive oil and gently fry the onions and garlic until starting to soften. Add the artichokes and continue frying gently until the onions are translucent. Stirring, add the peas and broad beans. Season and pour in enough water to come 1cm above the top of the vegetables. Bring to the boil. Lay the slices of prosciutto over the top, cover with a lid and simmer for 20 minutes.

Remove the lid. Lift out the prosciutto and cut into pieces, then return to the pan with the chopped mint and 100ml of extra virgin olive oil. Check for seasoning.

To make the bruschetta, toast the bread on both sides, and gently rub one side only with the garlic. Pour on more extra virgin olive oil, then serve the Vignole warm or at room temperature with the bruschetta.

Vignole
Vignole
Image

Marinated Artichokes

The polaroid here was taken for one of our earlier books to explain the preparation of an artichoke.

Serves 6

12 small Violetta artichokes with their stalks

juice of 3 lemons

a handful of picked leaves from mixed fresh herbs, to include marjoram, thyme and/or oregano

4 garlic cloves, peeled and thickly sliced

extra virgin olive oil

To prepare each artichoke, first cut off some of the stalk, leaving about 5cm attached. Cut or break off the tough outer leaves, starting at the base, until you are left with the pale inner part. Then peel the stalk with a potato peeler, leaving only the pale tender centre. Trim the pointed top of the artichoke straight across, which will reveal the choke. Cut the artichoke in half vertically. Remove the choke with a teaspoon. As each artichoke is prepared, drop it into a bowl of cold water with the juice of 2 lemons.

Blanch the artichokes in boiling salted water for about 5 minutes or until the heart is tender. Drain.

Layer the artichoke halves in a large bowl with the herb leaves, garlic and some sea salt and black pepper. Cover completely with extra virgin olive oil and add the remaining lemon juice. Leave to marinate for a minimum of 3 hours.

Raw Artichoke Salad

We only make this salad when the artichokes are so fresh you can hear the leaves snap off.

Serves 6

6 small Violetta artichokes with their stalks

juice of 3 lemons

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to drizzle

100g Parmesan in the piece, very thinly shaved

Prepare the artichokes (see Marinated Artichokes, here) but leave them whole. Remove the choke with a teaspoon, then finely slice the artichokes vertically and immediately place in a bowl of cold water with the juice of 2 lemons. Set aside.

Make the dressing with the remaining lemon juice and the extra virgin olive oil, season with sea salt and black pepper.

When ready to serve, drain and dry the artichokes and pour the dressing over them. Cover with thin shavings of Parmesan and drizzle over more extra virgin olive oil.

Raw Artichoke Salad
Raw Artichoke Salad
Image
Image

Crab and Raw Artichoke Salad

We were all together in Venice one summer and had this antipasto at Da Ivo.

Serves 2

2 medium Violetta artichokes with their stalks

juice of 1 lemon

200g white crabmeat

2 teaspoons brown crabmeat

2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to drizzle

Cut the artichokes finely and season them well.

To prepare each artichoke, first cut off some of the stalk, leaving about 5cm attached. Cut or break off the tough outer leaves, starting at the base, until you are left with the pale inner part. Then peel the stalk with a potato peeler, leaving only the pale tender centre. Trim the pointed top of the artichoke straight across, which will reveal the choke. Remove the choke with a teaspoon. Slice the artichoke vertically as thinly as possible. As each artichoke is prepared, drop it into a bowl of cold water with half of the lemon juice.

Combine the white and brown crabmeat with the parsley, remaining lemon juice and the extra virgin olive oil. Season with sea salt and black pepper. Drain the artichokes and stir lightly through the crab to combine.

Season again and finish with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

Crab and Raw Artichoke Salad
Crab and Raw Artichoke Salad

Bagna Cauda with Prosecco

Serves 6

750ml Prosecco

3 garlic cloves, peeled

300g Swiss chard

2 fennel bulbs, cut into 6 wedges

6 medium carrots, peeled and cut in half lengthways

3 celery hearts, quartered

12 salted anchovies

250g unsalted butter, softened

50ml olive oil

Put the Prosecco into a saucepan, add the garlic and boil until the Prosecco has reduced to about 100ml and the garlic is soft. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Bring two saucepans of salted water to the boil. In the first pan, blanch the Swiss chard, making sure the stalks are softened before draining. Add the fennel, carrots and celery hearts to the second pan, reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes or until tender. Drain.

Rinse the anchovies well under cold running water to remove all the salt, then gently remove the spine bones and heads. Pat dry. Separate the anchovies into fillets.

To finish the sauce, return the saucepan with the reduced Prosecco and softened garlic to the heat and add the anchovy fillets. Allow them to melt into the mixture. Gently whisk in the softened butter, little by little – remove the pan from the heat after the first addition of butter. When all the butter has been incorporated, add the olive oil and black pepper to taste.

Arrange the warm vegetables on a serving plate. Pour over the sauce and serve immediately.

Ed Ruscha
Ed Ruscha

Bruschetta with Mozzarella and Spinach

In our private dining room at The River Cafe, we put antipasti on large plates to pass around the table. Put the bruschetta on one plate, with others for spinach, tomatoes and mozzarella, or other seasonal vegetables.

Serves 2

200g washed spinach leaves

1 large ball mozzarella, about 250g

2 slices sourdough

1 garlic clove, peeled

2 ripe tomatoes, cut in half

200ml extra virgin olive oil

25g picked mixed fresh summer herb leaves, to include marjoram and basil

1–2 olives, optional

Blanch the spinach in a pan of boiling water for about 1 minute or until wilted. Drain well, pressing out excess water.

Tear the mozzarella onto two plates.

Grill the bread over charcoal or on a char-grill/griddle pan until nicely browned on both sides. Remove from the grill and rub generously with the garlic clove.

Squash the tomatoes onto the bruschetta (discard the tomato skin), then season well with sea salt and black pepper. Drizzle with olive oil. Put the bruschetta on the plates.

In a bowl, season the drained spinach. Toss with 50–100ml extra virgin olive oil.

Arrange the spinach on the plates alongside the mozzarella and bruschetta. Drizzle over any remaining olive oil and add the herbs – plus an olive or two if you have them.

Bruschetta with Mozzarella and Spinach
Bruschetta with Mozzarella and Spinach

White Asparagus with Bottarga Butter

We love the contrast between the delicate taste of the asparagus and the rich salty bottarga. Unlike green asparagus, you need to be ruthless when peeling the stalks of white ones.

Serves 4

32 white asparagus spears

100g Sardinian bottarga from grey mullet roe

250g unsalted butter, softened

juice of 1 lemon

Snap the tough ends from the asparagus spears. Peel the stalks (up to the tips) using a potato peeler.

Grate about three-quarters of the bottarga stick on the finest holes of a cheese grater (reserve the remainder of the bottarga stick for adding at the end).

Beat the softened butter with the grated bottarga. Add the lemon juice and black pepper to taste. Check for seasoning and add a little sea salt, if required.

Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Add the asparagus and simmer for about 4 minutes, depending on the thickness of the spears, or until a knife tip can gently pierce the stalk. Drain the asparagus and arrange on four warm plates.

Put a dessertspoonful of the bottarga butter on top of each serving of warm asparagus. Grate the remaining bottarga over the plates and season with a little more black pepper. Serve immediately.

White Asparagus with Bottarga Butter
White Asparagus with Bottarga Butter

Raw Porcini Salad

This is a simple recipe we make only with very fresh porcini. The mushrooms should be pristine with wide, white stalks and brown, unbroken caps. If the undersides of the caps are yellowish brown it means the mushrooms are overripe. Never wash porcini.

Serves 4

4 large firm and fresh porcini

100ml extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to drizzle

juice of ½ lemon

200g rocket leaves

6 branches of fresh thyme leaves

Keeping the porcini whole, wipe the caps with a damp cloth and peel the stems, cutting off the base. Slice the porcini thinly lengthways.

Combine the olive oil and lemon juice with some sea salt and black pepper.

Wash and dry the rocket. Toss with the dressing and divide among four plates. Put the porcini on top. Season and sprinkle over the thyme leaves. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and serve.

Raw Porcini Salad
Raw Porcini Salad

Agretti with Tomato and Pangrattato

When we first discovered agretti, it was impossible to source, but today it is available and worth searching for. Its dark grassy taste is brilliant with a rich slow-cooked tomato sauce, salty bottarga or with just olive oil, salt and pepper.

Serves 6–8

600g agretti

1 stale ciabatta loaf

olive oil

½ quantity of Slow-cooked Tomato Sauce (see here)

Snap off the bottom stalks from the agretti, just below the long leafy tops.

Pulse-chop the ciabatta into breadcrumbs in a food processor. Heat some olive oil in a frying pan and shallow fry the breadcrumbs until they are golden. Lift out with a slotted spoon and drain well on kitchen paper.

Warm the tomato sauce.

Blanch the agretti in a pan of rapidly boiling salted water for 3 minutes or until tender. Drain and dry on kitchen paper to remove all the excess water.

Put the agretti on a plate and spoon over the tomato sauce. Sprinkle with the breadcrumbs and serve.

Agretti with Tomato and Pangrattato
Agretti with Tomato and Pangrattato
Image

Zucchini Trifolati