An Introduction to Textile Coloration: Principles and Practice
Roger H. Wardman
Physico‐chemical Aspects of Textile Coloration
Stephen M. Burkinshaw
Standard Colorimetry: Definitions, Algorithms and Software
Claudio Oleari
The Coloration of Wool and Other Keratin Fibres
David M. Lewis and John A. Rippon (Eds)
This edition first published 2018
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Society of Dyers and Colourists (SDC) is the world’s leading independent educational charity dedicated to advancing the science and technology of colour. Our mission is to educate the changing world in the science of colour.
SDC was established in 1884 and became a registered educational charity in 1962. SDC was granted a Royal Charter in 1963 and is the only organisation in the world that can award the Chartered Colourist status, which remains the pinnacle of achievement for coloration professionals.
We are a global organisation. With our head office and trading company based in Bradford, United Kingdom, we have members worldwide and regions in the United Kingdom, China, Hong Kong, India and Pakistan.
Membership: To become a member of the leading educational charity dedicated to colour, please email members@sdc.org.uk for details.
Coloration Qualifications: SDC’s accredited qualifications are recognised worldwide. Please email edu@sdc.org.uk for further information.
Colour Index: The unique and definitive classification system for dyes and pigments used globally by manufacturers, researchers and users of dyes and pigments (www.colour‐index.com).
Publications: SDC is a global provider of content, helping people to become more effective in the workplace and in their careers by educating them about colour. This includes textbooks covering a range of dyeing and finishing topics with an ongoing programme of new titles. In addition, we publish Coloration Technology, the world’s leading peer‐reviewed journal dealing with the application of colour, providing access to the latest coloration research globally.
For further information please email: info@sdc.org.uk or visit www.sdc.org.uk.
In 1993 the Society of Dyers and Colourists published the book Colour for Textiles: A User’s Handbook by Dr Wilfred Ingamells, which covered the basic science and technology of textile coloration. Dr Ingamells wrote the book at a level at which those without a detailed scientific background could understand the fundamental principles underlying dyeing and printing processes and it proved to be a very successful publication.
During the 25 years since the publication of the book, there have been a considerable number of developments in the dyeing and printing industry, not least of which have been the challenges imposed by the drive towards environmentally friendly processes and restrictions on the use of certain chemicals. In response, the Publications Committee of the Society of Dyers and Colourists (SDC) considered it necessary to produce an updated version of the book, and I, together with Dr Matthew Clark, agreed to take on the task. Unfortunately Dr Clark had to withdraw from the project at an early stage, but did complete Chapter 5 on textile printing, and I gratefully acknowledge his contribution.
One of the aims of rewriting Dr Ingamells’ book was to create a supporting textbook for the course ‘Textile Coloration Certificate’, which had been developed by Dr Clark and Mr Filarowski at the SDC and introduced in 2011. This course is aimed at personnel working in textile dyeing or printing companies, but who do not have a strong scientific background, so that they may attain a good understanding of the chemical principles involved in the processes with which they are involved. Accordingly, given the slightly different aim of this book, there is slightly more technical detail than in Dr Ingamells’ book.
It is the intention that candidates who successfully complete this course will be very well prepared to continue their studies to enter the Society’s examinations for Associateship, an honours degree level qualification. It is hoped therefore that this book additionally will provide a sound basis for students preparing for the ASDC qualification, though of course it is expected that they will also consult books available on the specialised topics related to textile coloration. At the introductory level of this book, it has not been possible to cover the dyeing of all the variants of textile fibre types. For example, there are many different types of polyester fibres and numerous types of fibre blends, and it is unrealistic to detail the processes involved in all these cases.
It was necessary for me to make some decisions about nomenclature in writing the book. In the teaching of organic chemistry in schools, the names of chemicals established by the rules of the International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry (IUPAC) are used. In industry the original (trivial) names are still widely used, so to avoid confusion I have used these names also. Thus, for example, I have used ‘ethanoic (acetic) acid’, instead of just ‘ethanoic acid’. Another issue to address was that of commercial names for products. I have tried to avoid giving commercial names as much as possible, so, for example, all dye structures are labelled with their Colour Index numbers.
Finally, in preparing the book, I am grateful to Dr Ingamells for allowing me to use, where I considered it appropriate, parts of his text and diagrams. I gratefully acknowledge the help of the library staff at the Scottish Borders campus of Heriot‐Watt University, especially Mr Peter Sandison, Mr Jamie MacIntyre and Mrs Alison Morrison. I am particularly indebted to Mr Andrew Filarowski at the Society of Dyers and Colourists for so carefully going through the manuscripts of Chapters 1–6 and suggesting countless, yet very pertinent, modifications. His advice, support and links with the dyeing companies have been invaluable in the preparation of the book. Dr Jim Nobbs, formerly of Leeds University, very carefully scrutinised Chapter 7 and similarly provided many useful comments. Finally, I would like to thank Mr Alan Ross of High Street Textile Testing Services Ltd for carrying out very thoroughly a similar task on Chapter 8 and for making many useful corrections.